Fallas
are a Valencian tradition which celebrates
Saint Joseph's Day (19 March) in
Valencia, Spain. Each neighbourhood
of the city has an organized group
of people, the Casal
faller, that works all year long holding
fundraising parties and dinners, usually
featuring the famous speciality paella,
and of course much music and laughter.
Each casal faller produces a construction
known as a falla which is eventually
burnt. A casal faller is also known
as a comisión fallera.
Falles & ninots
Formerly, much
time would also be spent at the Casal
Faller preparing
the ninots (Valencian for puppets or
dolls). During the week leading up
to 19 March, each group takes its ninot
out for a grand parade, and then mounts
it, each on its own elaborate firecracker-filled
cardboard and papier-mâché artistic
monument in a street of the given neighborhood.
This whole assembly is a falla.
The ninots and
their falles are developed according
to an agreed upon theme that
was, and continues to be a satirical
jab at anything or anyone unlucky enough
to draw the attention of the critical
eyes of the fallers — the celebrants
themselves. In modern times, the whole
two week long festival has spawned
a huge local industry, to the point
that an entire suburban area has been
designated the City of Falles — Ciutat
fallera. Here, crews of artists and
artisans, sculptors, painters, and
many others all spend months producing
elaborate constructions, richly absurd
paper and wax, wood and styrofoam tableaux
towering up to five stories, composed
of fanciful figures in outrageous poses
arranged in gravity-defying architecture,
each produced at the direction of the
many individual neighbourhood Casals
faller who vie with each to attract
the best artists, and then to create
the most outrageous monument to their
target. There are more than 500 different
falles in Valencia, including those
of other towns in the Land of Valencia.
During Falles,
many people from their casal faller
dress in the regional
costumes from different eras of Valencia's
history — the fife and drum are
frequently heard, as most of the different
casals fallers have their own traditional
bands.
Although the Falles are a very traditional
event and many participants dress in
mediaeval clothing, the ninots for
2005 included such modern characters
as Shrek and George W. Bush.
Events During Fallas
The days and nights
in Valencia are one running party
during the two weeks
of Falles. There are processions galore — historical
processions, religious processions,
and hysterical processions. The restaurants
spill out to the streets. Explosions
can be heard all day long and sporadically
through the night. Foreigners may be
surprised to see everyone from small
children to elderly gentlemen throwing
fireworks and bangers in the streets,
which are littered with pyrotechnical
débris.
La Desperta
Each day of of
falles begins at 8am with la despertà ("the
wake-up call"). Brass bands will
appear from the casals and begin to
march down every road playing lively
music. Close behind them are the fallers
throwing large firecrackers in the
street as they go (large enough to
set off nearby car alarms, which will
add their sirens to the bedlam!).
La Mascletà
Sometime around
2pm there is the mascletà (an
explosive display of the concussive
effects of co-ordinated firecracker
and fireworks barrages) in each neighbourhood;
the main attraction is the municipal
Mascleta in the Plaça de l'Ajuntament
where the great pyrotecnic masters
compete for the honour of providing
the final Mascleta of the fiestas (on
March 19th). Huge crowds gather from
all corners of the city to see this
event (go early!). At 2pm the clock
will chime and one of the lovely maidens
(dressed in her fallera finery) will
call from the balcony of the City Hall,
Senyor pirotècnic, pot començar
la mascleta! ("Mr. Pyrotechnic,
you may commence the Mascleta!").
Suddenly the square rips with a pyrotechnic
display of a power rarely seen outside
the battlefield. Louder is better as
far as Valencians are concerned, and
the masters don't disappoint them.
For six or seven minutes hundreds of
kilograms of flash powder is gradually
detonated. The crowd rocks with each
explosion and great billowing clouds
of smoke rise as it builds to the finale.
The final crescendo of noise will leave
you stunned and senseless for several
seconds, at which point a huge cheer
goes up from the crowd and the people
run forward to applaud the pyrotecnic
masters as they bow to their fans.
Mascleta is a very Valencian activity,
hugely popular with the Valencian people
and found in very few other places
in the world. Smaller neighbourhoods
often have their own mascleta for saint
days, for weddings and for other celebrations
as well. In Valencia, any reason is
a good reason for a Mascleta.
La Plantà
The Day of the 15th all of the fallas
infantils are to be finished being
constructed and later that night all
of the fallas mayores are to be completed.
If not, they face disqualification.
La Ofrenda
Each casual falla takes an offering
of flowers to the virgin. This occurs
all day on ther days of March 17th
and March 18th. The virgin's body is
then constructed with these flowers.
Los Castillos and La
Nit de Foc
The nights of the 15, 16, 17, and
18th there is a fireworks display in
the old riverbed in Valencia. Each
night is progressively grander and
the last is called La Nit de Foc, the
night of fire.
La Cremà
On the final night
of Falles, around midnight on March
19th, these falles
are burnt as huge bonfires. This is
known as the cremada or cremà,
i.e. "the burning", and this
is of course the climax and point of
the whole event, and the reason why
the constructions are called falles
("torches"). Traditionally,
the falla near the town hall is burned
last.
Each falla is
adorned with fireworks which are
lit first. The construction
itself is lit either after or during
these fireworks. Falles burn quite
quickly, and the heat given off is
felt by all around. The heat from the
larger ones often drives the crowd
back a couple of metres, even though
they are already behind barriers that
the fire brigade has set several metres
away from the construction. In narrower
streets, the heat scorches the surrounding
buildings, and the firemen douse the
façades, window blinds, street
signs, etc. with their hoses in order
to stop them catching fire or melting,
from the beginning of the cremà until
it cools down after several minutes.
Away from the
falles, there are people going crazy
through the streets, with
the city resembling an open-air nightclub,
except that instead of music there
is the occasionally deafening sound
of people throwing fireworks and bangers
around randomly. There are stalls selling
products such as the typical fried
snacks porras, churros and buñuelos,
as well as roast chestnuts or various
trinkets.
Find more information visiting
website Las Fallas: www.fallas.com